Googs and Beyond
Easter 2011
The
preparation for this trip started in May 2010 when we were returning from the
west with
Friday 15
April
The day had finally arrived and a number of us
met at the Bolivar rendezvous, the Caltex
Station. As Jen was unable to go I had a
friend with me, Dick Sladden. We met Len
Tonkin, Kath and Kevin at
As we neared Mambray
Creek, Spot came over the radio asking if any members of the ORVC party were on
channel, we responded and caught up at the camp site able to secure sites close
to each other. After setting up, a few
of the party walked up into the gorge taking in the flora and fauna of the area. Each group had tea and then congregated
around the fire pit at Spots camp area with wood supplied by Kim. Gerry arrived earlier than expected so we
discussed the next day’s agenda over a social drink.
Saturday 16
April
A
Everyone settled into their accommodation which
ranged from a cabin for Spot, Powered Site for Ian and Dick, Non Powered Sites
for the remainder of the group. Then a
small group went to the Community Hotel on the foreshore for tea and the others
made their own at the
Sunday 17
April
After refuelling our first port of call was the
Tourist Bureau for those members who needed to get a pass for Googs Track and
to find out what the track conditions were like. We were disappointed with the service we
received as the information officers were only worried about the number of
travellers they were expecting over the extended Easter Weekend. The rangers were expecting to camp on the
track over the long weekend as it would be like
Spot had made his way to the BP service station
on the western edge of town and everyone would meet there and then move onto
Googs track. In my wisdom, thought I
would take a short cut but it happened to be the wrong road out of town so we
all met at the turn off to Googs Track.
Once we went through the gate to the entrance of
It has puzzled me for quite some time as to why
a person would clear a track of some 150 plus kilometres to the
intercontinental railway line. After the
trip I did some research and found that Goog pushed the track through from 1973
to 1976 so that the locals could attend the Tarcoola races.
Fire wood had to be gathered for the evening
roast and the fire was lit in plenty of time so we had good coals. A roast of pork, beef and lamb with potatoes,
onions , sweet potatoes, carrots and peas followed by plumb pudding and custard. Kathy tried her hand successfully making
bread in the camp oven and later in the trip tried it in the Cob.
Monday 18
April
Gerry led a trip to Childera
Rock. This is a large rock, similar to
those around Minnipa, on Lake Everard Station with a stone and mortar wall
around the edge of the rock to collect the water for stock use. As we left the camp site, leaving Kim and
Spot to mind our belongings, we hugged
The group stopped first at Lois waterhole, a small hole in the large granite rock, full of water which was a marvellous site in such a dry land. The view from the top of the rocky outcrop was something to behold and just showed the wonders of the Australian outback. We lunched at the waterhole prior to travelling through the dog proof fence on to Childera Rock. The ingenuity of the pastoralists of bygone eras was evident as this water catchment is still in use today. The water collected off the rock is channelled to a large stone tank then pumped by windmill to sheep troughs at that end of the property. On the return journey we visited another rock hole, Narala rock hole. This was similar to the Lois waterhole and still was full of water. We reached camp in time for happy hour and general chatter around the camp fire.
Tuesday 19
April
Today was the day we conquered Googs
Track. From the camp site we headed
north easily traversing the sand hills.
Some were badly rutted suggesting that travellers before us had not let
their tyres down sufficiently. This was
proved when we heard over the radio that one of a group of Victorians with a
trailer behind us was being snatched over nearly every sand hill. TC, Spot offered them advice about tyre
pressures but was told in no uncertain terms that they knew all about
travelling over sand hills.
The sand hills to
An excellent pub meal was had at the hotel that
night. We flustered the publican as a
group of 15 Victorian travellers had booked for
Wednesday
20 April
Gerry and Malcolm said farewell to the group as
they headed south east into the
Once at the
Thursday 21
April
Spot led a round trip to the Breakaways, an
area of geological importance just north east of Coober
Pedy. It was unfortunate that Kathy was
not feeling well enough to join us so Kevin hopped in with Ian and Dick. Len also stayed behind to do some running
repairs to his vehicle.
We travelled up the bitumen for approximately
20 km then east to the Breakaways. One
could not help but marvel at the colours of the hills, ranging from pure white,
through browns, yellow to very strong ochre.
A couple of back packers had camped overlooking this memorable scene and
they were in another country would be up for about $500.00 for one nights
accommodation. We walked over much of
the site marvelling at the hills, their colourings and the fragility of the
area as a whole.
The return journey took us to the dog proof
fence on to the moon plain where we explored the landscape. The soil was deep brown to black very friable
with deep cracks. After rains one could
envisage this plain turning to soup and not a place to be driving. We then returned to Coober
Pedy for a restful afternoon and a Pizza tea at the
Caravan Park Pizza Shop.
Friday 22
April
Woke up to hot cross buns and a
Spot led the way as he had led a trip over this
ground some years earlier and it was decided as he had the knowledge he would
lead until we reached Alice Springs.
North to Mount Barry then west to Evelyn Downs, north to the Cadney Homestead/Oodnadatta road then east to Arkaringa Station.
When we travelled these roads previously they were 80km roads but on this
trip we were in for a shock. From
The Cadney Homestead
to Oodnadatta road, the major road from the
The last of our party, Ian, reached the camp
ground at Arkaringa at dusk as I had left my long
handled shovel at the bog scene and had to return approximately 10 kilometres
to retrieve it. Too late to take in the
sunset at the Painted Desert so after an
unexpected real 4x4 driving experience we had dinner and a chat with another
wanderer, Julie, around the camp fire.
Saturday 23
April
Every one woke to a great morning and we were
back on track to see the
After morning tea we headed for Oodnadatta
where we paid the highest price for petrol to date, $1.98 per litre. After filling with fuel we lunched at the
Pink Roadhouse and on enquiring were told that the road between Mt Dare and Old
Andado was closed. Decisions, decisions, so we decided to move on
to Mt Dare where we would get the most up to date
information about the track. Our next
stop, on the way to the Eringa waterhole, was one of
the few remaining Overland Telegraph poles still standing. The road was mostly good with some bulldust
patches with water and green grass over most of the country.
Arriving at the waterhole we picked the best
sites we could and dropped two yabby nets into the billabong to try our luck. I
had trouble with the camper trailer zip cover and after much patience; Spot was
able to open it successfully, hoping that when it was packed up in the morning
everything would fall into place. After
tea we discussed our options if the Old Andado track
was closed. It was decided we would
proceed with plan B, firstly going to Chambers Pillar then
Sunday
(Easter Sunday) 24 April
Up early to check the yabby pots and to my
surprise there was three good sized yabbies in the two nets. The idyllic morning silence was broken by the
next camp, what we believe were Victorians, cutting down logs with a chain
saw. We left this great spot and if the
trip had been more leisurely with no definite ending date we could have rested
and stayed at least another night. Off
to Mt Dare to fill up with fuel, check the road conditions and hopefully head
north to Old Andado.
The fuel was the most expensive, beating Oodnadatta by a few cents and
to add to our quandary the road was closed.
Easter Bunny visited us at Mt Dare and we had
chocolate easter eggs
supplied by Jenny W and the Mt Dare Hotel.
After much discussion we decided to try the track and if need be would
have to retrace our steps and go to plan B.
The advice was to watch for the bore tracks as they were often more
distinct than the main track. Off we set
and the first road junction took the left hand fork, WRONG, and ended up at a
bore. Spot tried valiantly to connect
with the main track but no avail, so we went back the way we had come until we
found our way over the sand hills to the main track.
The country side was unbelievable with green feed
up to the doors of the vehicles and large areas of water. The track in places was very hard to follow
but we made the South Australian/Northern Territory border and onto Mayfield
Bore. Just north of the bore there was a
real contrast between the sand hills on the western side of the track and the
vast expanse of water of the billabong to the east. Everyone in the party expressed amazement at
the scenery and made the comment that we will probably never see the outback so
green and with so much water lying about again in our travels.
We quietly made our way to Andado
Station turning east on the Binns Track towards Old Andado. As expected
we found the road was blocked by a huge
billabong so found some faint tracks to the north and followed them. It wasn’t long before
the track disappeared and we had to skirt the large lake, laying down fences
which enabled us to reach the homestead.
Arriving at
Monday 25
April
If breaking the zip to my trailer cover wasn’t
bad enough I woke to discover a flat and what was worse a stake had peirced the side wall of a brand new tyre. We were unable to fix it immediately so would
wait until we reached
Spot led the way again making our own tracks as
we left Old Andado around the large expanses of water
until we successfully found the road to
We passed the turnoff to the
Tuesday 26
April.
On this public holiday we quietly made our way
into
Repairs were made to vehicles and I am indebted
to Spot for bringing out his monster soldering iron and repairing the cold
solders I had done on my Anderson Plugs.
Kath and Kevin explored
Wednesday
27 April
Ian and Kim left the park early to get tyres
fixed and we all met on
After
lunch on the roadside just outside the settlement we headed down the Finke
Gorge for
We arrived at the camp ground to find a neat
well developed area with solar showers, six well kept gas barbecues and well
laid out camp areas for tents and camper trailers. The Kalaranga lookout
over the valley and camp ground was worth a trip as the late afternoon sun
accentuated the colours of the rock amphitheatre encircled by the rugged
cliffs. On return from our trip to the
lookout we were met by Kirsty Stenhouse, the park
ranger. Kirsty
had been very helpful when the trip was being organised and she continued her
great service during our stay at
To our disappointment all fires had to be
contained in the steel fire pits which were unsuitable for camp ovens, so the
roast night was rescheduled for Kings Creek Station a few nights later. This did not stop us having the usual happy
hour and thanks to Kathy for once again spoiling the boys with her great
nibbles. It had become a contest of how
many mice had been caught in the traps overnight. Both Kim and Spot had mice or larger animals
scampering over their tents during the night interrupting their sleep.
Thursday 28
April
This was one of the days I had been looking
forward to for many months, the hiking into
We returned to the campsite for lunch and a
relaxing afternoon. Those of the group
who had not climbed the lookout on Wednesday decided to do it this
afternoon. As we were unable to have a
roast night the COB was a good substitute.
Ian cooked a roast and Kathy tried her had at bread.
Friday 29 April
As Kirsty had
recommended that we did not take trailers to Boggy Hole, we decided on a day
trip from the camp ground. Setting off
at
After a short break and lunch we headed back
along the river bed enjoying ourselves with four wheel
driving through the water, scaling the jump up and negotiating the long
stretches of very sandy sections. On the
return trip we were still in wonderment of the gorge and surrounding
country. Back at
Saturday 30
April
It was time to move on from this idyllic
camping site to another Australian Outback icon,
Spot led the way and after Hermannsburg our
first stop was Gosses Bluff. which
is one of the most significant impact structures in the world. The crater is thought to be made by the
impact of a large comet or meteorite, about 143 million years ago. It is also estimated that the original crater
would have been 22 kilometres in diameter and the object would have released energy
equivalent to 22,000 mega tonnes of TNT.
In comparison the atomic bomb on
We then travelled the Mereeni
Loop and to our surprise not a bad road with long stretches under road
works. We passed a prime mover
travelling at about five kms per hour and all over
the road. This apparently is par for the
course with these vehicles when they are not loaded up with a trailer etc.
We drove 30 kilometres past the Kings Canyon
Resort and settled into the Kings Creek camp ground paying $20.00 per person
per night for a powered site which I thought was a bit on the steep side. But if you compare it to Yulara and
Sunday 1
May
This was the day to conquer the rim walk of
Arriving at the entrance to the Canyon at
As we were having a pre dinner drink a couple
of fellow travellers joined us, to Spots delight the husband was a bureaucrat
employed by the World Development Bank stationed in
Monday 2
May
This was the day it dawned on me that we were
actually heading for home with a couple of major stops of interest on the
way. Back to the
After collecting enough wood we headed for the Henbury Reserve where it was noted that it contained 12
craters, ranging from 7 to 180 metres in diameter, which were formed when a
meteorite hit earths surface 4,700 years ago.
The meteorite disintegrated and over 500 kilograms of metal have been
found at the site. After a walk around
the craters we headed for Stuarts Well and then onto
Tuesday 3
May
We were glad to leave our friends the mice
behind us as Spot showed the way north, then east across station country until
we reached the new railway line. Heading
south along the railway line to
We moved on passed the Maryvale Homestead on
the road to Chambers Pillar. After about
half an hours travel we came to an escarpment and the view to the south was
memorable. In the distance the red and
yellow sandstone column of chambers Pillar stood out. The closer we came to the camp ground it
wasn’t only Chambers Pillar that was awe inspiring but the other rock
formations called, Castle Rock, Window Rock and Eagle Rock. After settling into the camp ground a walk up
to Chambers Pillar was a must. We
inspected the pillar at close quarters and learnt the history and that John MacDouall Stuart was the first white person to see it. He named it after his sponsor and friend
James Chambers. At the base of the
pillar there are many names carved into the sandstone and one that stands out
is John Ross, the leader of the exploring party for the Overland Telegraph
Line.
By day the pillar is spectacular but at sunset it really comes to life with the fantastic colours. I have seen pictures of it at sunset and didn’t really believe it, but walking to the sunset viewing platform with Kim, Kathy and Dick, experiencing the image in the afterglow of light blew us away
Wednesday 4 May
As there was no track directly east from the Pillar to the Old Ghan Railway line we retraced our steps to Maryvale Station for morning tea then back to Rodinga before we could head south down the old railway line. Our next stop was Bundooma ruins, again another railway siding on the old line. It was fascinating to retrace the steps of our pioneers and early workers on this line. It was interesting to note the sudden increase in use during the second world war as many troupes were sent north by train.
Driving along the old line one had to be careful dodging the old dog spikes and other debris in the road. As we drove south on the edge of the Simpson Desert it was fascinating to see the hills to the east and how erosion had formed the landscape from what was a plain many thousands of years earlier.
Kathy and Kevin had indicated earlier during the trip that they wanted to see Lake Eyre in flood so they kept heading south at Finke whilst the rest of the group turned west and headed for Kulgera. Our last sightseeing stop on the trip was Lamberts Centre of Australia. The four remaining vehicles headed off the road some 12 kilometres on a very windy four wheel drive only track into the Centre of Australia. Originally Central Mount Stuart was considered the centre of Australia but work undertaken by the Queensland branch of the Royal Geographical Society of Australia calculated the planimetric centre of gravity of Australia (not the geographical centre of Australia) was actually 25036’36.4”S and 134021’17.3”E. The centre of Australia, Lambert Centre, was named after Dr Bruce Lambert, Director of Australia’s Division of national Planning and Chairman of the National Mapping Council from 1951 to 1977.
After the obligatory photos we headed for Kulgera a place where Spot could change his fuel filter, as he thought there was water in the fuel due to the sluggishness of the vehicle. Everyone else prepared their vehicles for the run home.
Thursday 5 May
Spot was uncertain as to whether the problem had been fixed so he led the way down the Stuart Highway. Everything seemed to go well but the closer we got to Marla the worse they became. Marla became repair time as Spots fuel filter and air cleaner filter were renewed. If this did not fix the problem we would call into Coober Pedy and have the car fixed there. The best advice from a mechanic in Coober Pedy was to travel slowly to Adelaide. As there was plenty of time left in the day we headed for Glendambo which made it much easier for our last day travel to Adelaide.
The last night on the road we gathered in the bar for a few drinks and a great meal of lamb shanks. It was good to reminisce over the past three weeks of the highs, of which there were many and the lows. It had been a great time to experience the outback in such a great state.
Friday 6 May
The last leg was a good days run from Glendambo to Adelaide. A stop off in Port Augusta for fuel and this is where Len and Kim left both Spot and me as it didn’t need all four travelling together for the last 300 kilometres.
Even with Spots problems we made reasonable time overall but were slowed by the hills immediately south of Lochiel and made Adelaide just prior to peak hour traffic.
As trip leader I would like to thank all those on the trip for a great time, in particular Spot for his knowledge and help with problems that arose during the course of the trip and Kathy for putting up with the blokes and making suck great nibbles to have at happy hour.
Trip Leader : Ian Williams