Happy hour on the Cooper with good friends, a roaring fire and a 'Cooper' sunset. Doesn't get much better than this and we have many more such days to come which makes the long drive up here worthwhile.

Plan A for Day 1 was for Keith and Gill, Ian and Jenny and the Whittles to drive as far as Dingley Dell campsite, but as we were running a bit late and there were roadworks on the Wilpena-Blinman road, we decided to

implement plan B and head for Arkapena. You may want to note that this campsite is now closed. So for us it was back to plan A. The road works turned out to be the bitumising of the Blinman Road and, since there were no

workers in sight, we made much better time than anticipated and managed to set up camp before dark. Not a bad little campsite for an overnighter even though we found neither the ruins or the aboriginal engravings mentioned by

the Moons.

I slipped up by assuming there would be fuel at Blinman. There wasn't, and because three of the group had never been to Arkaroola we started Day 2 with a 60km detour for a tank and tummy break. Then on via

North Mulga to Montecollina Bore. The track has been widened and was in excellent condition but towards the end the scenery of the gibber plains was a bit tedious, especially after the magnificence of the Flinders and Gammon

Ranges.

What a shock when we arrived at Montecollina! Alvin and I have pulled in there countless times to camp or just for lunch. Occassionaly we shared it with one other car. This time there were camps everywhere and

even an Atco hut. It turned out that all but one couple were drillers and geologists who were out there for three weeks on behalf of Beverley Uranium. We passed the drill site the next morning. Later Ian spotted

survey poles along the side of the Strezlecki and we were lucky enough to chat to the surveyors. The plan is to lay a ten kilometre stretch of bitumen every fifty kilometres to allow overtaking of the many anticipated trucks. So

much change. We still enjoyed the free hot water from the bore for our showers. On to Innamincka and we found a reasonable spot on Cullyamurra Waterhole and set up in time to cook a roast, thanks to Jill, followed by

Christmas Pudding thanks to Jenny. The morning of Day 4 was spent finalising the camp. After lunch we drove to the end of the camping areas and started the walk to the Choke, supposedly 2 kms from the carpark.

After an hour walking and not recognising anything we turned back, It was a pleasant walk and in our absence a few yabbies had found Ian's net.

Next day we drove along the Nappa Merrie Road to the Dig Tree. The area is now set up with picnic tables, toilets and an Information shed so we didn't mind so much paying the $11 per car for something that used to be

free. More importantly there is some protection for this historic monument. The actual blazes are getting difficult to discern. While we were eating lunch a Dick Lang Safari flew in. They made us feel quite scruffy, especially

the guy in the white moleskins, but we decided our trip was much better value for money. We returned to camp via the Flood By-pass track and had a look at the site of the first exploratory drilling for gas or oil, put down in

1959. A look around the shop and a glass at the pub rounded off the day and then it was back to camp and more yabbies and another roast. After a lazy day in camp, Day 6 saw us ready for more sightseeing.

History was the theme for the day, starting at Burke's Grave before following the Fifteen Mile Track out to Will's Grave and working our way back to King's Marker. It is hard to imagine the hardship they suffered in such beautiful

surroundings. Back in town we visited the restored Australian Inland Mission Hospital. Two nurses at a time were appointed for two year terms, with initially only once weekly communication with the outside world. They must

have felt very vulnerable at times. Keith had his bread rising in the car all day and we were witness to his success with his first attempt using a bread mix.

Day 7 and the last day at Cullyamurra which started well with a fish breakfast. Jenny, Alvin and I decided to potter around camp while Ian, Jill and Keith had another crack at finding the Choke, this time with success and

some excellent photographs of the Aboriginal Art. It seems we had walked right past it on our first attempt,

A week gone already and it was time to move on. The track to Coongie Lakes was in very good condition apart from minor corrugations. We were early enough to find a very pleasant spot on the lake side and some

of us enjoyed a lazy afternoon while others pottered with minor tasks before watching a colourful sunset. I think the feeling of well being encouraged the grape juice to flow a little more freely than was wise and some of us were

somewhat subdued the following morning. We nevertheless managed to drive to the allowed limits around the lake. This involved a 700mm deep water-crossing which appeared to be so much fun that the girls demanded

their shot on the return trip and Jill even did it twice. She also handled the dunes in style. Perhaps Ralph should do some recruiting?

On our return trip to Innamincka we did the sightseeing. The Toyota Landcruiser Club are doing a good job of restoring Kudriemitchie Outstation. The camp at Scubby Camp Yards was quite attractive although access to the

water was a bit tricky. We detoured via the Durantie Track just to vary the

return trip.

Back at Innamincka we found a spot at Policeman's Waterhole which we are sharing with about 300 corellas. After setting up camp we returned to town to enjoy gold-plated icecreams and drinks. (Didn't see the gold but we

surmised it must have been there somewhere). Also met a lady who wanted to know if there were any grassy camp sites. Very remiss of Desert Parks not to provide such things.

The evening brought us a celebratory dinner, courtesy mainly of Jenny, as a send-off for Gill and Keith who are returning to Adelaide to celebrate their son's fortieth. They have been excellent company so next

morning it was with some sadness that we waved them goodbye. For the rest of us it was on to Windorah. There was a caution on the Cordillo Downs Road when we checked prior to leaving Adelaide but it turned

out to be just a few rougher patches on the first 130km through the Regional Reserve. For the rest of it we were able to sit on 80kmh which left us time to take the side trip to Haddon Corner. The track out there was pretty good

too. Once on the Diamantina Development Road we decided to leave further sight-seeing until the trip out. That enabled us to arrive in Windorah by 4.30pm, leaving time to set up and have a welcome hot shower before tea at

the pub. Usual pub fare but lots of it and good value for money. The following morning Jen and I made the most of the $2 a load washing machines while the guys did bits on cars. After lunch we cleared

the shopping and visited the museum at the Visitor Information Centre. We all enjoyed Windorah which has deservedly won Tidy Town for several years. They also encourage tourists by only charging $10 for a powered site on the

Caravan Park, which is basic but practical and clean.

Next morning we drove out on the Diamantina Development Road and had a look at the heap of dirt that was the ruins of the JC Hotel. Quite a sad end. Because the stockmen were drinking too much the station owner

bought the pub and closed it down. Once the roof was removed the mudbrick walls soon disintegrated so that little is left other than the story. After a quick look at the 'hole in the rock' and an aboriginal well we headed for

Diamantina Lakes National Park. The countryside driving in was fantastic. Mitchell grass plains extended as far as we could see and it was difficult to comprehend the vastness and as we crossed the myriad creek lines it was

even more impossible to imagine it in flood. With such rich pasture livestock were a continuous hazard. Only the claypans were free and then bulldust holes kept us alert. At our first encounter we were bowling along, still in two

wheel drive fifth. Suddenly dust was flowing everywhere and the car was not behaving well at all. We proceeded with more caution after that. The campsites in the park were a disappointment. Hunters Gorge

was sloping, lumpy ground and very exposed but with excellent water access. Gum Hole, which we settled on, has very pleasant campsites but poor access to the water. The self-guided tour was quite interesting with

varied landforms and odd bits of Aboriginal and early European history along the track. Overall we all agreed that Diamantina Lakes NP was worth a visit provided there had been some rain but even then a couple of nights was

enough.

The drive to Boulia across more of the mind-boggling vastness of the golden Mitchell grass plains was uneventful and by lunchtime we were setting up in the Caravan Park. It was a very clean little park on the bank of

the Burke River and within walking distance of the hotel where we dined both nights. The food was fine and not too expensive but we had fun with the wine. They only had three bottles. We tried a white first but it was very

sweet. The two reds threatened to be sweeter still so we settled on the Morris Chateau Cardboard by the glass. Next night we discovered that had been their last cask. I guess we will have to learn to drink more beer or

Bundi and Coke.

On our second day we checked out the town. The Stone House Museum was excellent. Dick Suter is a true outback character with lots of tales to tell and is also a geologist. His fossil collection is well worth

checking out as is the rest of the museum. We then did the required touristy bit and visited the Min Min Encounter which was surprisingly well done. By purchasing our tickets at the Encounter Office first we were able to

do the two attractions for $10. The attached cafe also makes a decent cup of coffee.

And so to the end. It has been a leisurely progress through some wonderful outback country giving us time to soak it in. Sharing it with good company enhanced the experience and we thank Keith and Gill and Ian and

Jenny for working in so well.

Kath.