CAPE YORK

Part 3 Cape York Trip by Pat & Ian

Friday 15 August - Eliot Falls Camping Ground to Loyalty Beach

After a very warm night we woke to a heavily overcast morning. Andrew, Gary Jack and Ashley packed up early and left around 7.30 to continue their journey up the rest of the Old Telegraph Track as far as the Jardine River. We left around 8.30 in the midst of drizzly rain, soon coming across Canal Creek a tricky crossing quite "deceptive and dangerous" as pointed out in our research information, needing to be walked first. Jen walked the creek and came across 2 mud flaps. A lovely young women who was camped nearby said a couple of 4 wheel drivers had come through earlier this morning and one had left them behind. On describing the truck we assumed they were Gary’s and took them with us. She said it was interesting watching people cross the river and getting themselves into all kinds of trouble. We turned left and travel up the creek for a short distance then crossed, taking the exit track on the far left. This was a great camping spot. We continued, coming across Sam Creek an interesting crossing with a large flat boulder in the middle and a steep exit, easy if taken slowly. We soon arrived at the exit road near Mistake Creek which took us out onto the Development Road. Wow! we had done it and I would recommend it to everyone. We arrived at the Jardine River and purchased our ticket to cross the river on a small ferry, $99 return for our 4 wheel drives and camper trailers. We stopped for morning tea and met another large group of off roaders on a tag along tour, nearly 40 vehicles were taking part. Luckily they were heading down the Cape.

The road was good into Bamaga and after missing our turn off to Loyalty Beach we ended up at Seisia a seaside town and port, where barges bring in supplies, tourists and return broken down 4 wheel drives to Cairns. Gary started to talk to us over the radio and we were amazed they had arrived already. We soon found our way to Loyalty Beach Camping Park a beautiful spot with fabulous views of the nearby Torres Strait Islands. Gary and Andrew informed us they had not continued up the OTT but had taken the same route as us. Jen asked Gary was he missing something and handed over the mud flaps. Andrew had checked out the sight seeing for Thursday Island and found they were heavily booked so we decided to stay another night to do the tour. I would suggest allowing at least 6 to 8 days up here, so much to see.

Saturday 16 August - Loyalty Beach

Another beautiful, warm day and after breakfast we left for the "Tip" as the locals called it. We took a narrow track through very beautiful rain forest, soon coming across The Croc Tent a souvenir shop where the owners gave us a map and suggested a great 4 wheel drive around the east and northern coast of the cape to Somerset. We continued stopping at a place called Punsand Bay, checking out the camping resort and taking in some refreshments, a pretty spot. Gary soon led us to a car parking area near the tip which I later found out was the site of a rainforest retreat which was open in the 70s. We walked through the rainforest on a dilapidated board walk coming to a second car park closer to the tip. It was a steep and rocky climb to the highest point where we left Jack to say his final farewell to his mates he served with in New Guinea. The rest of us made our way down more rocks to "The Tip". Andrew fired a round of golf balls out to sea, just missing a small island by about 30metres. We held up the club flag, took lots of photos and enjoyed celebratory drinks. It was quite strange and exciting to think we were standing at the northern most point of Australia, only 180ks from Papua New Guinea. We headed back, collected Jack, took more photos and headed for Somerset. The track was very, very narrow, sandy and rough in places with rain forest in parts and low scrub inches from the vehicles, taking us on and off three beautiful beaches. We stopped for a bite to eat on one of the beaches in very windy conditions. Sadly one beach had lots of rubbish on it’s shore. The track often divided and we had concerns we may have taken the wrong one, but we soon arrived at Somerset, to historical ruins, cannons and a small boat. Somerset was established in 1864 as a settlement for passing sailors and managed by the Jardine family. The cannons were from an 1890s ship wreck. We continued, visiting a small cemetery by the sea also a good bush camping site. By the time we returned to Loyalty Beach we were all very tired. The Hosking’s awning had fallen down during the day and a kind neighbour in a very large Kedron Van tied it up. We enjoyed a relaxing evening and drinks with the nice woman and her partner that Gary had met at Weipa.

Sunday 17 August - Loyalty Beach to the Tip

It was quite warm today and we spent time doing the washing, Shirl and Ashley played cards, then after lunch we went for a drive. We saw several WW2 sites of plane wreckage and toured the little town of Bamaga. Ian, Andrew, Gary and Ashley decided to do a little fishing on Seisia wharf where Ian caught an unusual fish. We watched a small barge came in and then returned to camp. Andrew, Gary, Jack and Ashley cooked up steaks on a nearby camp fire left by a recent bus tour. We later enjoyed the camp fire and became amused by watching 2 ships, brightly lit, sailing out at sea. They appeared to pull up next to each other and a large crane from one boat looked like it was moving cargo.

Monday 18 August - Thursday Island and Horn Island

It was an early start this morning to take the catamaran "Strait Magic" over to Thursday Island. Jack decided he wouldn’t go and enjoyed some time out at Loyalty Beach. We all met at the Seisia wharf at 7.30 and saw the 2 ships from the night before, docked. The trip to TI took 11/4 hours with lovely views of the sea and nearby islands. The Torres Strait covers about some 40,000 sq km and over 100 islands of which 15 have communities established on them. In 1877 the administration of the area was relocated from Somerset on the tip of Cape York to T.I.. T.I. is one of the smallest islands but the most populated due to its safe harbour. Water is piped from a reservoir on Horn Island. TI is 30 kms from the Cape and on our arrival we took a bus to Green Hill Fort, which housed memorabilia from WW2 and the pearling industry. Green Hill Fort was built in response to the scare of a war with Russia in 1891 and by 1893 the fort was fully operational. It was interesting wandering around the fort and seeing the view from the battlements. It housed 83 men in its prime and was also utilized during the first and second world wars as a training facility and a wireless listening station respectively. We continued our tour passing the hospital, the cultural centre, the Quetta Memorial Church, Our Lady of the Sacred Heart Catholic Church, their wind farm and stopping for a short time at the Cemetery where the Japanese Government had erected a monument to the 700 divers who lost their lives pearling. It was an interesting stop, seeing all the Japanese pearler’s graves and the colourful Islander and Aboriginal graves.

Quickly back to port, we caught the ferry to Horn Island where on arriving we were taken to the Gateway Torres Trait Resort for lunch, enjoying a smorgas board of chinese food. Our lovely female tour guide had been instrumental in setting up the Heritage museum out the back containing lots of WW2 memorabilia. She believed Horn Island had been forgotten in it’s role in WW2, as a important military air base, so began her studies and research which resulted in the museum and tour. We were taken to other sites to see large bunkers cut into the ground and air craft wreckage. She was interesting, informative and entertaining. I would definitely recommend this tour.

We took the ferry back to TI transferring onto another heading for Seisia. This was very full so most of us sat outside taking in the sea spray. The sea was rougher going back but fun bouncing up and down over large waves. We all did a little shopping ready for our trip back tomorrow. Large rain clouds had come in and it had cooled down. We had tea and later watched the 2 ships, brightly lit up, leave nearby Seisia wharf and sail out to sea, quite specky.

 

Tuesday 19 August - Loyalty Beach to Archer River

Strong winds blew most of the night, with Shirl, Pete and their little tent still with us in the morning. Andrew’s Taj was also still standing however lots of chickens (scrub fowl) were pecking their little hearts out under the Taj. Ashley was quite amused by this trying to chase them away. I think some nibbles from the night before had accidentally rolled around and under the Taj providing a yummy breakfast for the birds. We packed up and sadly left our million dollar view and beautiful camp site by the beach and headed for Captain Billy’s Landing on the eastern side of the cape, where we planned to camp the night. By the time we stopped for morning tea, the wind had become very strong so we abandoned our plans and continued down the Development road. The road was unsealed, dusty with annoying corrugations, however Gary said it was better than his last trip. Gary and Andrew were making good time while us sightseers took it a little easier. We arrived at Archer River mid afternoon and set up camp. By this time the wind was out of control and Jen, Ian, Shirl and Pete found a good sheltered camping spot. Some of us gave cooking tea a miss and enjoyed a meal at the Roadhouse. The wind was still going strong when we all retired for the night.

Wednesday 20 August - Archer River to Lakeland

The wind howled through the trees and overhead all night, it sounded like a train roaring past. We left and went over more annoying corrugations passing scenery similar to the OTT, traveling through Coen and the quarantine inspection where we found that if you had fruit and veggies in the fridge then you could take them with you. We traveled on through Musgrave Station and Hann River arriving at Laura for lunch, taking in some historical sites. We headed onto the Ang-gnarrra Aboriginal Interpretive Centre (very flash) where Gary decided he would repair a puncture on a tyre that kept going down. Then off to Split Rock the site of ancient aboriginal rock art. We made our way up a rocky walking trail on the side of a fairly large mountain and to the rock art, worth a look. We headed off and traveled down through the Lakeland area, pass big banana plantations. We stayed at the Lakeland Caravan Park with showers only tiny people could love. It came in a little cold so some of us ate out at the nearby hotel with Gary, Bruce and Andrew making a night of it at the hotel.

Thursday 21 August - Lakeland to Mareeba and Goodbye

We all enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast at the Lakeland Coffee House this morning as it was our last day together. We continued onto Mareeba and had morning tea at the Coffee Works and sadly said goodbye. Jen and Ian were heading back to Lake Placid CP to drop of Shirl and Pete and stay the night. Then they were taking their time down the east coast before heading home. Andrew was also going back to Lake Placid for the night and then heading onto Airlie Beach to catch up with friends. The Hallams and the Hoskings took a very pretty drive through the Atherton Tablelands, huge mountains, rain forests and fog to Innisfail. Then down the coast through lots of sugar cane fields, stopping at a beautiful little town called Cardwell overlooking Hinchinbrook Island for the night. We continued to Townsville where Jack caught up with rellies, then onto Charters Towers bush camping near Prairie. Next day we went to Longreach staying 2 nights at Infracrombe CP as recommended by everyone. This is a little CP with lovely managers who entertain you at happy hour with lots of jokes. Jack threw in his Peter Perkins joke which went down well. We did the touristy thing visiting the Qantas Museum and Stockman’s Hall of Fame. We headed home via the Strezlecki track, bush camping on the road to Inamincka and the road out of Inamincka with a quick tour of Cooper Creek and Burke and Wills historical sites. We drove through the Moomba Gas Fields, checked out Leigh Creek coal mine, staying at Leigh Creek CP for the night. The Hallams packed up early and headed home while the Hoskings got a little lost in the Flinders staying at Melrose the night, unexpectedly enjoying tea with Brad Andrew’s parents who were next to us at the caravan park, before heading home the next day.

Highlights

We missed the Olympics while we were away however Jens talents at packing and repacking a camper trailer would have won gold. Andrew’s sleeping tent "The Taj" captured the hearts and minds of locals and fellow travelers especially when it was going for a ride on his roof rack. Thanks to Gary for sharing his information and knowledge of his previous trip to the Cape. Thanks to Ian for taking notes on his laptop in the wee hours of the morning, making this report easier to write. Thanks to Shirl and Pete for their great company an Jack for his humour. Thanks to Ashley for keeping us entertained and young at heart. In all every part of the trip was a highlight. The Hoskings would like to thank everyone for their entertainment, fun, laughter, good company and patience even when we had lots of inquiries about the new camper causing a few late starts some days. Love to do it all again!