
CAPE YORK
Part 3 Cape York Trip by Pat & Ian
Friday 15 August - Eliot Falls Camping Ground to Loyalty Beach
After a very warm night we woke to a heavily overcast
morning. Andrew, Gary Jack and Ashley packed up early and left around 7.30 to
continue their journey up the rest of the Old Telegraph Track as far as the
Jardine River. We left around 8.30 in the midst of drizzly rain, soon coming
across Canal Creek
a tricky crossing quite "deceptive and dangerous" as pointed out in our research
information, needing to be walked first. Jen walked the creek and came across 2
mud flaps. A lovely young women who was camped nearby said a couple of 4 wheel
drivers had come through earlier this morning and one had left them behind. On
describing the truck we assumed they were Gary’s and took them with us. She said
it was interesting watching people cross the river and getting themselves into
all kinds of trouble. We turned left and travel up the creek for a short
distance then crossed, taking the exit track on the far left. This was a great
camping spot. We continued, coming across Sam Creek an interesting crossing with
a large flat boulder in the middle and a steep exit, easy if taken slowly. We
soon arrived at the exit road near Mistake Creek which took us out onto the
Development Road. Wow! we had done it and I would recommend it to everyone. We
arrived at the Jardine River and purchased our ticket to cross the river on a
small ferry, $99 return for our 4 wheel drives and camper trailers. We stopped
for morning tea and met another large group
of off roaders on a tag along tour, nearly 40 vehicles were taking part. Luckily
they were heading down the Cape.
The road was good into Bamaga and after missing our turn off
to Loyalty Beach we ended up at Seisia a seaside town and port, where barges
bring in supplies, tourists and return broken down 4 wheel drives to Cairns.
Gary started to talk to us over the radio and we were amazed they had arrived
already. We soon found our way to Loyalty Beach Camping Park a beautiful spot
with fabulous
views of the nearby Torres Strait Islands. Gary and Andrew informed us they had
not continued up the OTT but had taken the same route as us. Jen asked Gary was
he missing something and handed over the mud flaps. Andrew had checked out the
sight seeing for Thursday Island and found they were heavily booked so we
decided to stay another night to do the tour. I would suggest allowing at least
6 to 8 days up here, so much to see.
Saturday 16 August - Loyalty Beach
Another beautiful, warm day and after breakfast we left for
the "Tip" as the locals called it. We took a narrow track through very beautiful
rain forest, soon coming across The Croc Tent
a souvenir shop where the owners gave us a map and suggested a great 4 wheel
drive around the east and northern coast of the cape to Somerset. We continued
stopping at a place called Punsand Bay, checking out the camping resort and
taking in some refreshments, a pretty spot. Gary soon led us to a car parking
area near the tip which I later found out was the site of a rainforest retreat
which was open in the 70s. We walked through the rainforest on a dilapidated
board walk coming to a second car park closer to the tip. It was a steep and
rocky climb to the highest point where we left Jack to say his final farewell to
his mates he served with in New Guinea. The rest of us made our way down more
rocks to "The Tip". Andrew fired a round of golf balls out to sea, just missing
a small island by about 30metres. We held up the club flag, took lots of photos
and enjoyed celebratory drinks. It was quite strange and exciting to think we
were standing at the northern most point of Australia, only 180ks from Papua New
Guinea. We headed back, collected Jack,
took more photos and headed for Somerset. The track was very, very narrow, sandy
and rough in places with rain forest in parts and low scrub inches from the
vehicles, taking us on and off three beautiful beaches. We stopped for a bite to
eat on one of the beaches in very windy conditions. Sadly one beach had lots of
rubbish on it’s shore. The track often divided and we had concerns we may have
taken the wrong one, but we soon arrived at Somerset, to historical ruins,
cannons and a small boat. Somerset was established in 1864 as a settlement for
passing sailors and managed by the Jardine family. The cannons were from an
1890s ship wreck. We continued, visiting a small cemetery by the sea also a good
bush camping site. By the time we returned to Loyalty Beach we were all very
tired. The Hosking’s awning had fallen down during the day and a kind neighbour
in a very large Kedron Van tied it up. We enjoyed a relaxing evening and drinks
with the nice woman and her partner that Gary had met at Weipa.
Sunday 17 August - Loyalty Beach to the Tip
It was quite warm today and we spent time doing the washing,
Shirl and Ashley played cards, then after lunch we went for a drive. We saw
several WW2 sites of plane wreckage and toured the little town of Bamaga. Ian,
Andrew, Gary and Ashley decided to do a little fishing on Seisia
wharf where Ian caught an unusual fish. We watched a small barge came in and
then returned to camp. Andrew, Gary, Jack and Ashley cooked up steaks on a
nearby camp fire left by a recent bus tour. We later enjoyed the camp fire and
became amused by watching 2 ships, brightly lit, sailing out at sea. They
appeared to pull up next to each other and a large crane from one boat looked
like it was moving cargo.
Monday 18 August - Thursday Island and Horn Island
It was an early start this morning to take the catamaran
"Strait Magic" over to Thursday Island. Jack decided he wouldn’t go and enjoyed
some time out at Loyalty Beach. We all met at the Seisia wharf at 7.30 and saw
the 2 ships from the night before, docked. The trip to TI took 11/4
hours with lovely views of the sea and nearby islands. The Torres Strait covers
about some 40,000 sq km and over 100 islands of which 15 have communities
established on them. In 1877 the administration of the area was relocated from
Somerset on the tip of Cape York to T.I.. T.I. is one of the smallest islands
but the most populated due to its safe harbour. Water is piped from a reservoir
on Horn Island. TI is 30 kms from the Cape and on our arrival we took a bus to
Green Hill Fort, which housed memorabilia from WW2 and the pearling industry.
Green Hill Fort was built in response to the scare of a war with Russia in 1891
and by 1893 the fort was fully operational. It was interesting wandering around
the fort and seeing
the view from the battlements. It housed 83 men in its prime and was also
utilized during the first and second world wars as a training facility and a
wireless listening station respectively. We continued our tour passing the
hospital, the cultural centre, the Quetta Memorial Church, Our Lady of the
Sacred Heart Catholic Church, their wind farm and stopping for a short time at
the Cemetery where the Japanese Government had erected a monument to the 700
divers who lost their lives pearling. It was an interesting stop, seeing all the
Japanese pearler’s graves and the colourful Islander and Aboriginal graves.
Quickly back to port, we caught the ferry to Horn Island where on arriving we were taken to the Gateway Torres Trait Resort for lunch, enjoying a smorgas board of chinese food. Our lovely female tour guide had been instrumental in setting up the Heritage museum out the back containing lots of WW2 memorabilia. She believed Horn Island had been forgotten in it’s role in WW2, as a important military air base, so began her studies and research which resulted in the museum and tour. We were taken to other sites to see large bunkers cut into the ground and air craft wreckage. She was interesting, informative and entertaining. I would definitely recommend this tour.
We took the ferry back to TI transferring onto another heading for Seisia. This was very full so most of us sat outside taking in the sea spray. The sea was rougher going back but fun bouncing up and down over large waves. We all did a little shopping ready for our trip back tomorrow. Large rain clouds had come in and it had cooled down. We had tea and later watched the 2 ships, brightly lit up, leave nearby Seisia wharf and sail out to sea, quite specky.
Tuesday 19 August - Loyalty Beach to Archer River
Strong winds blew most of the night, with Shirl, Pete and their little tent
still with us in the morning. Andrew’s Taj was also still standing however lots
of chickens (scrub fowl) were pecking their little hearts out under the Taj.
Ashley was quite amused by this trying to chase them away.
I think some
nibbles from the night before had accidentally rolled around and under the Taj
providing a yummy breakfast for the birds. We packed up and sadly left our
million dollar view and beautiful camp site by the beach and headed for Captain
Billy’s Landing on the eastern side of the cape, where we planned to camp the
night. By the time we stopped for morning tea, the wind had become very strong
so we abandoned our plans and continued down the Development road. The road was
unsealed, dusty with annoying corrugations, however Gary said it was better than
his last trip. Gary and Andrew were making good time while us sightseers took it
a little easier. We arrived at Archer River mid afternoon and set up camp. By
this time the wind was out of control and Jen, Ian, Shirl and Pete found a good
sheltered camping spot. Some of us gave cooking tea a miss and enjoyed a meal at
the Roadhouse. The wind was still going strong when we all retired for the
night.
Wednesday 20 August - Archer River to Lakeland
The wind howled through the trees and overhead all night, it sounded like a
train roaring past. We left and went over more annoying corrugations passing
scenery similar to the OTT, traveling through Coen and the quarantine inspection
where we found that if you had fruit and veggies in the fridge then you could
take them with you. We traveled on through Musgrave Station and Hann River
arriving at Laura for lunch, taking in some historical sites. We headed onto the
Ang-gnarrra Aboriginal Interpretive Centre (very flash) where Gary decided he
would repair a puncture on a tyre that kept going down.
Then off to Split Rock the site of ancient aboriginal rock art. We made our way
up a rocky walking trail on the side of a fairly large mountain and to the rock
art, worth a look. We headed off and traveled down through the Lakeland area,
pass big banana plantations. We stayed at the Lakeland Caravan Park with showers
only tiny people could love. It came in a little cold so some of us ate out at
the nearby hotel with Gary, Bruce and Andrew making a night of it at the hotel.
Thursday 21 August - Lakeland to Mareeba and Goodbye
We all enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast at the Lakeland Coffee House this
morning as it was our last day together. We continued onto Mareeba and had
morning tea at the Coffee Works and sadly said goodbye. Jen and Ian were heading
back to Lake Placid CP to drop of Shirl and Pete and stay the night. Then they
were taking their time down the east coast before heading home. Andrew was also
going back to Lake Placid for the night and then heading onto Airlie Beach to
catch up with friends. The Hallams and the Hoskings took a very pretty drive
through the Atherton Tablelands, huge mountains, rain forests and fog to
Innisfail. Then down the coast through lots of sugar cane fields, stopping at a
beautiful little town called Cardwell overlooking Hinchinbrook Island for the
night. We continued to Townsville where Jack caught up with rellies, then onto
Charters Towers bush camping near Prairie. Next day we went to Longreach staying
2 nights at Infracrombe CP as recommended by everyone. This is a little CP with
lovely managers who entertain you at happy hour with lots of jokes. Jack threw
in his Peter Perkins joke which went down well. We did the touristy thing
visiting the Qantas Museum
and
Stockman’s Hall of Fame. We headed home via the
Strezlecki
track, bush camping on the road to Inamincka and the road out of Inamincka with
a quick tour of Cooper Creek and Burke and Wills historical sites. We drove
through the Moomba Gas Fields, checked out Leigh Creek coal mine, staying at
Leigh Creek CP for the night. The Hallams packed up early and headed home while
the Hoskings got a little lost in the Flinders staying at Melrose the night,
unexpectedly enjoying tea with Brad Andrew’s parents who were next to us at the
caravan park, before heading home the next day.
Highlights
We missed the Olympics while we were away however Jens talents at packing and repacking a camper trailer would have won gold. Andrew’s sleeping tent "The Taj" captured the hearts and minds of locals and fellow travelers especially when it was going for a ride on his roof rack. Thanks to Gary for sharing his information and knowledge of his previous trip to the Cape. Thanks to Ian for taking notes on his laptop in the wee hours of the morning, making this report easier to write. Thanks to Shirl and Pete for their great company an Jack for his humour. Thanks to Ashley for keeping us entertained and young at heart. In all every part of the trip was a highlight. The Hoskings would like to thank everyone for their entertainment, fun, laughter, good company and patience even when we had lots of inquiries about the new camper causing a few late starts some days. Love to do it all again!