After an interesting night by the see at Noahs Beach, with sounds of fishing boats and crashing waves we woke to more warm weather, bush turkeys and a brilliant red sky. Jack, Ashley and later Bruce and myself enjoyed a walk along the beautiful beach, taking in fabulous views of surrounding mountains and rainforests. We headed off meeting the others on the side of the road near Cape Tribulation Camp Ground. Andrew and Gary went looking for a morning coffee fix only to find that café’s opened around 10.00am. As we traveled through the small town of Cape Tribulation, shops were open serving coffee. Too late we were off to tackle the Bloomfield Track.

Driving through extremely dense rainforest, we came across a number of pretty water crossings, very steep ascents and descents with amazing views. We needed to have the trucks in low 1 (a little stressful for me!). After stopping for morning tea we continued on to the Wujal Wujal Aboriginal Settlement and the nearby Bloomfield Falls. At the falls which were quite spectacular we met a large tag-a-long tour group with aboriginal guides who informed us that Roaring Meg Falls was a 2 hour drive and then a 2k walk. These falls were considered no better than the Bloomfield falls by locals so we continued driving to the Lions Den Hotel for lunch. Heading for Cooktown we came across Black Mountain a large mountain of black rocks (very unusual) stopping for a photo moment. On arriving in Cooktown Gary took us up a very steep track to the town lookout. Great views but extremely windy. After a look around the town we headed the 35 km north to the Endeavour Falls Caravan Park, a quiet spot near some pretty falls. Jen gave Ashley some rocket balloons, everyone enjoyed the entertainment as they screamed and flew around the tall palms.

It was nice to have a day off from driving and while Andrew was washing his breakfast dishes the "Taj" (Andrew’s sleeping tent) underwent a makeover. In the blink of an eye, a wagon appeared with a trusty steed leading it. Waiting on tender hooks to see his reaction, Andrew rode the horse back to Ian and Jen’s camper. Ashley played with the horse for two days. We all drove back into Cooktown catching the sights, still very windy. We (Pat and Bruce) had fish and chips by the wharf, Andrew tasted the seafood delights at a small fish café close to the wharf, Gary and crew had their lunch back at Endeavour Falls whilst the Williams crew lunched at the Cooktown Botanic Gardens. We enjoyed a warm evening together and thankfully the wind dropped.

We left the Endeavour Falls CP and headed for Lakefield National Park, stopping at Isabella Falls for a photo moment. We had our first experience of heavy corrugations and all decided to reduce our tyre pressures to improve the ride. After a couple of lovely river crossings, we soon reached Old Laura Homestead, a busy tourist spot. It was well set out with the history of the station prior to becoming a National Park, a graphic insight to the conditions our early settlers had to deal with every day. Bruce found one of his rear tail lights hanging by its wires. Andrew also found a few screws missing. The duct tape came to the rescue and we continued passing lots of magnetic ant nests. They grew taller as we traveled, but Gary said they were nothing, just wait until we get further north. We passed lagoons filled with water lilies and scrub scattered with pandanas palms. I (Pat) had a bit of difficulty navigating, however we soon arrived at Hann River camp ground on the Kennedy River quicker than I had calculated. We crossed the river which was wide, shallow and rocky and set up camp near the deeper part of the river immediately east of a small waterfall. Andrew went walking and spoke to a couple of fishermen and was surprised to find they were friends from Yorke Penninsula. It was the first opportunity to put the crab nets out and Ashley was successful in catching a freshwater turtle, a fish and a fresh water shrimp. At dusk hundreds of fruit bats flew over head, following the river up stream, quite spectacular. Jen cooked up a batch of yummy pikelets and we all enjoyed these with jam around Gary’s tent after tea.

Before every body got up, Ian and Jen went skinny dipping in the fresh running water by the falls. Ashley checked the nets which were left out over night and found a second freshwater shrimp had been caught. We packed up and headed for Archer River Roadhouse coming across the Lotusbird Lodge, next to the Lotus Bird Lagoon filled with spectacular birdlife and pretty water lilies. At $600 a night you can enjoy the wilderness, go on bird watching tours and stay in your self contained cabin, with meals supplied (no campers allowed, darn!). After morning tea at Musgrave Station we traveled through Coen arriving at Archer River for a late lunch. Some of us walked down to the wide, mostly dry, sandy river bed, filled with large bolders and small trees. A little stream ran to one side and we enjoyed paddling our feet in the water. A very pretty river bed with good camping spots along it’s banks. That night, some of us enjoyed a nice meal at the roadhouse before heading for bed.

Warm again today with an easy drive into Weipa along a very well graded road, with stretches of bitumen. Arriving early we set up camp and had the rest of the day to ourselves. The Weipa camp ground had a fantastic setting on the beach front with magnificent sea views, but the facilities were tired. Andrew decided on an afternoon mine tour, Gary and crew went shopping in the near by shopping centre, whilst we (Pat and Bruce) toured the town. The Williams mob had lunch and then also toured the town. We saw lots of orange sand on roofs of houses from the mining of bauxite. Ashley enjoyed the pool and later with great anticipation Ian, Gary and Ashley set off on their first great fishing expedition to the second creek. Ian had earlier befriended a camper next door who told him about a great fishing spot. They had many bites but no luck, instead spotting a wild crocodile on the other side of the river, Ashley’s first sighting of a real live croc. Later lots of photos were taken of a beautiful sunset over the sea, followed by tea around the camp. No camp fire tonight as they were not allowed.

Gary, Bruce, Pat and Ashley took off at 8.30 for a bus tour of the mine. The bauxite layer is just under the top soil so it is mined above ground. Trains and huge trucks cart the bauxite to conveyers in Weipa where it’s sorted so only the smaller pebbles of bauxite is kept. It then goes through a processing plant and loaded onto ships, this was a good tour. Ian went fishing at day break to successfully catch 2 cat fish and his breakfast for the next day. Ashley, Jack and Gary enjoyed a swim in the pool and made friends with another camper heading to the Tip (a lovely lady but she could sure talk). We all did some last minute shopping and later enjoyed tea, drinks and a photo evening, thanks to Andrew’s and Ian’s laptops.

We packed up and the Williams crew decided they would go and fuel up. Unbeknown to them, a little joke had been hatched (one of many on the trip). A large sign saying "Just Married" had been created together with empty drink cans tied to a long piece of string. However we did not plan on them leaving early. It was now or never. As they drove off, very quickly one of the group grabbed the sign, stuck it on the back of the camper trailer and tied on the cans. What an amazing feat. We (Pat and Bruce) had camped near a young couple who had sat in there chairs, staring at the view, had not said anything much the whole time they were there. The woman jumped out of her chair, became quite animated pointing to the trailer and roared with laughter. This was just as interesting to watch as the Williams driving off. However they heard the cans and stopped at the park exit and removed them. We soon joined the William’s crew on the way out of town finding the sign still stuck to the back of the trailer. Andrew commented on how they were good sports leaving the "Just Married" sign on, with us all agreeing. We headed off for the Old Telegraph Track taking a short cut via Batavia Downs Station. We decided to stop for morning tea and comment on how nice they were about the joke. Shirley broke out in hysterical laughter, no one had seen the "Just Married" sign, even while removing the cans or fuelling up. Ian said people did have little smiles on their faces at the Servo but was not sure why. After some time, Shirl stopped laughing and we headed off, stopping at Morton Telegraph Station (camping available here, again a little tired) near the Wenlock River which had some lovely riverside camping spots. We continued, stopping at Bramwell Junction where the Old Telegraph Track, starts, enjoying a quick icecream. However we had to get our trip leader for the day Gary to come back, he was on his way up the Development Road without us.

Gary led the way in, with the narrow track winding around small trees making it a little tight for the Hosking’s longer camper. We continued through picturesque bushland, up, down and across deeply rutted sections of track. Soon we came across Palm Creek and I watched the back end of Gary’s trailer face skyward. I became a little freaked out and realized this was going to be a steep entry, however everyone made it across OK. We continued, crossing Ducie Creek which had a deep hole in the middle and then through South Alice creek which was dry and North Alice Creek, a shallow rocky crossing. We soon reached the Dulhunty River where we planned to stay the night. The southern side of the river had good camping spots with good access to the river. After some discussion and indecision on where we should all camp, we claimed our spots quick as the pink ladies arrived also wanting our spots (we had first come across two couples at Old Laura Station and the women both wore bright pink T shirts so on seeing them again later that day, I named them the pink ladies). Some of us, especially Ashley with his life vest on, went for a swim, while others walked and enjoyed the pretty river and falls. The night was quite warm and breezy and we all enjoyed a meal and drinks around a cosy camp fire. Nearby, the Pink Ladies were quite noisy, I think they had put a few away.

We left early, crossing the Dulhunty River, a shallow, easy crossing, coming to Bertie Creek. Jen, Shirl and Pete got out and did the walk across the river finding we needed to go right along the side of the creek edge for a short distance and then go straight across. The creek was full of potholes with sharp edges. Soon the landscape changed to low growing shrubs and orange grevilleas. It appeared that we were higher up, however we soon came down into Gun Shot Creek where we found several old, pretty steep and rough entries. We settled on the most recently used entry on the right hand side, in better condition. This was steep and uneven, but manageable with everyone crossing safely. Although Andrew thought he would flatten it just missing the side of the bank as he headed out. I got out to take photos and missed the experience, we will have to go back there again now. The river crossing was shallow, however you had to turn right to exit. While we were there, 2 groups of trail bikers arrived. This was great entertainment watching them go down, through the water and out the other side. After morning tea we continued, coming to Cockatoo Creek, where a large tour bus was parked in front of us and another arrived behind us. One of the drivers said to do a reverse D across the river to avoid large sharp potholes. As we headed in, a big audience was waiting on the other side, enjoying our river crossings and cheering us on. We continued quick to avoid the buses, however one was on a mission and we let him pass. Going through Sailor creek, a small eroded dry gully, we soon arrived at Fruitbat Falls. The car park was small and full of tourist buses. It was a quick walk to the falls where people were swimming, including the pink ladies and partners. No time to stay as we needed to secure a camp site near Twin, Elliot and Saucepan Falls. We arrived to find that sites were not set up for larger groups so it was a little squashy. However we had toilets nearby and could light a fire. We walked to all the falls, which were very beautiful and found we could swim at Twin Falls on Canal Creek. The water was nice and clear, a great swimming hole but busy with lots of other campers. A fantastic spot and we could have easily stayed here a few days, maybe next time. We had planned to have a roast night but being reluctant to leave the beautiful falls made this a late start. Jen kept us going with a yummy damper and the drinks took our minds off the late tea. The plan for the next day was to continue the Telegraph Track and turn off before Mistake Creek back onto the Development Road, but Gary and Andrew said they wanted to go further and complete the Telegraph Track. Bruce showed Gary the map explaining how they would need to cross two log bridges and go through Nolan’s Crossing, which everyone had told us was deep with a soft bottom but they were still determined to do it.

By Pat Hosking & Ian Williams